Tajine

Morocco’s Tasty Contribution To The Culinary World
By Habeeb Salloum

My first introduction to tajine, a dish which vies with couscous as Morocco’s national dish, took place in Rabat at the home of my friend Idriss. I had met him during his student days in Toronto after he had finished his studies at Laval University in Quebec City. Before he returned to his country, he, with his wife, Amina, had spent some time as our guests and enjoyed our home-cooked meals of Canadian and Middle Eastern foods.

Often after a meal, we would discuss the attributes of dishes we had just consumed, after which , more than once, Idriss or Amina would comment, “You must come to Morocco as our guests! I am sure after savoring our dishes, you will never forget Moroccan food – especially our tajines and couscous.”

Now, sitting amid the luxurious Moorish architecture of Idriss’s home, I watched a maid place before us a large steaming dish of what appeared to be a colourful stew. Noticing that I was looking at the dish before us, Amina remarked, “It’s called Tajine Fas! I’m from the city Fez and we are renowned for our tajines.” She smiled as she urged us to dip into that well-known Moroccan dish.

Soon, we were dipping morsels of thick bread – the best way to eat tajines – into the huge common dish. While relishing our Tajine Fas, I looked at Idriss with a satisfied grin, “You were right when you told us in Canada that once we tried Moroccan food, it will always stay in our memory.

Tajine, similar to the French etouffé, is both the name for a vast number of stews found on the menus of every Moroccan eating place and the shallow and handleless earthenware utensil with a cone-shaped lid in which they are cooked. It derives its name from the Greek teganon (frying pan) and is believed to have a history to the times that the Greeks were in North Africa.

Prepared from fish, chicken, lamb or other meats and a wide variety of vegetables, tajines are fragrant, tart, spicy and sweet. Stewed with fruits, olives, lemons, herbs and spices, and simmered to produce tasty sauces, they are a perfect answer to a hungry person’s dreams. When cooked in tajine earthenware, they reach their epitome of flavour. The mouth-watering taste of steaming tajines are as a result of the conical-lid capturing the steam and juices from all the ingredients simmering together for long hours over very low heat without the cover being removed.

I had a chance in the 1980’s, while travelling by bus from Casablanca to Marrakesh, to sample one these traditionally cooked tajines. During the journey, I became friendly with Muhammad, my seat companion – a jeweler from Casablanca. When the bus stopped for lunch, as the passengers were streaming into a roadside restaurant serving French food, Muhammad took me by the hand and steered me to a nearby peoples’ eating place where everyone in the place was dining on tajines.

I learned, as I enjoyed my succulent dish, that the tajines were prepared the previous day and allowed to simmer all night. For a few dirhams, I had savored a memorable meal. When I came to pay, Muhammad pulled my hand back, “Don’t think of paying! Are we not Arabs? You are my guest!” That meal, along with Muhammad’s hospitality, I have never forgotten.

The Moroccan kitchen would be much poorer without the delectable tajines. Fragrant, zesty, spicy or sweet, they are always delicious and inviting. Simmered to produce tasty sauces, their enticing aromas as they cook, and the flavours of the ingredients all meld together, making even the one who has just eaten yearn to sample the simmering dish.

Outside of Morocco, tajine earthenware utensils are hard to find. However, ordinary casseroles with lids or covered pots simmering over the fire are a fine replacements. The tajines might not be as tasty, but just about.

While dining on tajines outside of Morocco, one can enjoy the dish in various ways – by dipping crusty bread into the stew, or with a side dish of mashed potatoes or rice.

Fish Stew – Tajine Hout

Serves 4

*

1/2 cup cooking oil
*

2 pounds salmon or similar type fish steaks
*

2 medium size onions, finely chopped
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4 cloves garlic, crushed
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4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh
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coriander leaves
*

1 small hot pepper, finely chopped
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2 cups stewed tomatoes, puréed with 1 cup of water
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1 teaspoon salt
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1 teaspoon ginger
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1/2 teaspoon cumin
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1/2 teaspoon pepper
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1 lemon, quartered, then sliced
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1/3 cup green olives, pitted

In a frying pan, heat oil, then sauté fish steaks over medium heat for 10 minutes, turning them over once. Remove steaks and place in a casserole. In same oil, sauté onions, garlic, coriander leaves and hot pepper over medium heat for 10 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients, except the lemon and olives, to the frying pan contents then pour over the steaks in the casserole. Cover then bake in a 350 F preheated oven for 50 minutes. Spread lemons and olives evenly over the top of the steaks, then bake for a further 10 minutes. Serve immediately with mashed potatoes or cooked rice.

Egg and Almond Stew – Tajine Tufaaya

Serves 4 to 6

* 3 tablespoons butter
* 2 medium onions, finely chopped
* 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
* 1/2 teaspoon pepper
* 1/2 teaspoon paprika
* 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
* 1 pinch saffron
* 1 1/2 pounds beef, cut into 1 inch cubes
* 2 cups water
* 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander
* 4 tablespoons olive oil
* 1/2 cup slivered almonds
* 4 hard boiled eggs, shelled and quartered

Melt butter in a saucepan, then add the onions, salt, pepper, paprika, cayenne, saffron and meat. Stir-fry over medium heat until meat begins to brown then add water and coriander. Cover, then cook over low heat for 2 hours or until meat is well cooked, adding more water if necessary. Turn off heat and set aside. Heat oil in a frying pan, then add almonds and sauté until they turn golden brown. Remove from oil and set aside. Place meat with its sauce in a serving platter, then garnish with almonds. Place egg quarters spaced on top, then serve hot.

Fava Bean and Meat Stew – Tajine M’qualli

Serves about 4 to 6

*

1 pound beef or lamb, cut into medium size pieces
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1 large onion, finely chopped
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4 cloves garlic, crushed
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4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
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1 1/2 teaspoons salt
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1 teaspoon ground ginger
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3/4 teaspoon pepper
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1/2 teaspoon turmeric
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2 cups water
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4 tablespoons olive oil
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2 cups fresh or frozen fava shelled beans
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2 tablespoons lemon juice
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1/2 cup black olives, pitted and halved

In a saucepan, place meat, onion, garlic, coriander leaves, salt, ginger, pepper, turmeric, water and olive oil then bring to boil. Cover, then cook over low heat for 2 hours or until meat turns tender. Add fava beans, then cook for a further 20 minutes or until beans are done, adding more water if necessary. Stir in lemon juice then place in a serving utensil. Decorate with olives, then serve hot.

Almond, Prune and Chicken Stew – Tajine Dajaj bi-Barqooq wa Lawz

Serves about 8

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chicken, about 4 pounds, cut into serving pieces
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3 medium onions, chopped
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8 cloves garlic, crushed
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1/2 cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
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4 tablespoons butter
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2 teaspoons salt
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1 teaspoon pepper
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pinch of saffron
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3 cups water
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1 cup prunes, pitted
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2 tablespoons honey
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1 teaspoon cinnamon
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1/2 cup blanched almonds

In a saucepan, place chicken, onions, garlic, coriander, butter, salt, pepper, saffron and water, then bring to boil. Cover, then simmer over low heat for about 1 1/2 hours or until the chicken is well-done, adding more water if necessary. Remove chicken pieces with a slotted spoon and place on platter – keep warm. Add prunes to the sauce, then simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Stir in honey and cinnamon, then continuing simmering uncovered for another 10 minutes. Pour hot sauce over chicken pieces, then decorate with almonds and serve hot.